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Three Days of Sufi Events Near Fes

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The 28th, 29th and 30th of July are the dates for the first Hamadcha Festival in Sidi Ali ben Hamdouch. The festival is being directed by Abdedrrahim Amrani

According to the director there will also be performances by groups from around the country. For more information, please contact Abderrahim

Abderrahim Amrani


The View From Fez is proud to support this event as a sponsor

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Has Morocco's VoIP Problem Ended?

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... or is it just a temporary reprieve?
For the last two days VoIP calls, including WhatsApp, FaceTime, Skype and Viber, have been working again in Morocco when connecting through a Wi-Fi network

Since the afternoon of 27 July, calls through IP (VoIP) using major mobile application are running again. Tel Quel magazine reported that it had tested the functionality of the different applications, repeatedly and say that it is now possible to make voice and video calls from Morocco via these services.

Since January 2016 the National Telecommunications Regulatory Agency (ANRT) had born the brunt of the anger over blocking. It's move, which appears to have been financially motivated, caused  a backlash from Moroccans abroad and at home. Thankfully, a majority of Moroccans soon found technological ways to bypass the blocking and have been able to contact their families without problems.

The ANRT has not commented on  the new situation, their communication department only saying that "there is nothing new since January".  The major telephone companies also say they have not been notified of the changed situation. While this could be a face-saving retreat without fanfare, there is certainly no assurance that the return to normal will continue.

While the free calls work well with a WiFi connection, when the connection is via cellular data networks (3G and 4G), calls still do not work.

This return to normal communications, while possibly only partial, came a day after the publication by the ANRT of the latest figures for the consumption of telecommunications in Morocco. "At the end of Q2 of 2016, the price of mobile communications declined by an annual rate of 23%. At the same time the average bill per Internet customer increased by 4%".   The title of the release was "Mobile Internet stimulates the growth of Internet subscribers".

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Moroccan Museums Get an Upgrade

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Yesterday, Friday, July 29th, the Museum of the Kasbah in Tangier was renamed The Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures and opened its doors to the public after several months of renovation at a cost of around 2.5 million dirhams. Part of the budget (1.3 million dirhams) was kindly donated by a French citizen, resident in Morocco
Now open: "The Kasbah of Mediterranean Cultures"

Mehdi Qotbi, president of the National Museums Foundation (FNM) explained, "We felt the urgency to raise the the various museums of Morocco to international museum standards. So we are not going to wait for state funds to start these projects".

The Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Culture in Tangier is the first in a series of thirteen projects to upgrade of all Moroccan museums. Two museums whose current renovation work began in 2016 should also open their doors by the end of the year.

The next museums to be upgraded is the Archaeological Museum of Rabat which will probably be renamed The Rbati Museum of History and Civilisations.

This will be followed by the Batha Museum in Fez, whose construction was begun in May. According to  Mehdi Qotbi, "The work in Fez includes the consolidation and restoration of the building as well as upgrading its electricity. The three magnificent carved rooms, dating back 300 years, will also be restored".

The Batha Museum in Fez

The Batha museum work has required a budget of around ten million dirhams. Work will also include the creation of reception areas and road signs. Like most others museums it will also be renamed The Batha Museum of Islamic Art.

"We want to strengthen the identity of museums so that they are complementary to each other," said Mehdi Qotbi, who believes that the name of each museum will now "be in line with where it is located and the collections that it presents to the public."

In 2017 the Safi Museum of Ceramics of Safi and The Dar El Bacha Museum in Marrakech should be open to the public.

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Amazigh Language - a Three Step Introduction

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While the parliamentary session almost coming to an end, the General Secretariat of the Government has finally released the draft law to empower the Amazigh language. The head of government and all ministers have received a copy
An Amazigh child writes in Tifinagh, the script of Tamazight

This project adopts the principle of progressive implementation of the Amazigh language as an official language of the kingdom. The plan includes three major steps.

A first step over five years will be devoted to the gradual introduction of the language at all levels of basic education, as well as being included in the struggle against illiteracy. During this period, the speeches, the royal messages and official statements will be broadcast on Amazigh TV and radio.

A second 10-year period will be devoted to the generalisation of the Amazigh in colleges and high schools and will also see the introduction of courses at the tertiary level. In addition, an official journal is to be created by the parliament where the texts will be published in Arabic and Amazigh languages ​​and all official documents (identity card, driving license, passport etc.) will include data in Amazigh .

The third period, spanning 15 years, will see the widespread use of the Amazigh language in all public facilities and services, with all documents being written in both official languages.

The Amazigh languages and dialects have had a written tradition, on and off, for over 2,200 years, although the tradition has been frequently disrupted by invasions. They were first written in the Tifinagh alphabet, still used by the Tuareg. The oldest dated inscription is from about 200 BCE. Later, between about 1000 CE and 1500 CE, they were written in the Arabic script, and since the 20th century in the Amazigh (Berber) Latin alphabet, especially among the Kabyle and Riffian communities of Morocco and Algeria. The Berber Latin alphabet was also used by most European and Amazigh linguists during the 19th and 20th centuries.

A modernised form of the Tifinagh alphabet was made official in Morocco in 2003.

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Moroccan Tourism Takes a Hit

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Morocco's tourism industry is struggling. In the first five months of 2016 Morocco has welcomed just 3.48 million visitors, 1.4% less than the same period last year


According to the Tourism Observatory. The flow of international tourists fell by 4.5% in late May. This decline is across the main source markets for tourists to Morocco, including the UK (-7%), Germany (-7%), Italy (-6%) and France (-3 %). The one exception was The Netherlands, with Dutch tourists up 2%.

Overnight stays in tourist accommodation has decreased by 1.4% at the end of May, compared to the same period of 2015 (-5.5% for non-resident tourists and 8.4% for residents ).

Figures from the Tourism Observatory also show that the two tourist centres, Marrakech and Agadir, continue to provide the bulk of the country's tourism. They generated 60% of total overnight stays in the first five months of 2016, even though the nights were flat in Marrakech and were down 2% in Agadir.

The other destinations showed mixed results, with a 20% drop in Fez, a 3% decrease in Rabat and an increase of 6% each for the cities of Casablanca and Tangier.

The drop of numbers coming to Fez is particularly worrying with Riad owners struggling to maintain staff levels in near empty riads.

The occupancy rate, across Morocco reached 38% at end May 2016, down three points from the end of May 2015.

Revenue generated by nonresident tourists amounted to 21.5 billion dirhams, against 20.2 billion a year earlier.

Despite the downturn, Ryanair has increased to 55 routes for the winter season 2016-2017. This includes flights already operating to Agadir, Fez, Marrakech, Nador, Oujda, Rabat and Tangier.

New routes include; an Agadir London-Stansted flight and between Toulouse and Fez effective from November 1. Ryanair also plans flights between Marrakech and Tangier, from Liverpool and Frankfurt-Hahnn from October 31.

Marrakech tourism is flat

With its fifty flights to Morocco, the Irish company aims to carry 2.7 million passengers per year.

The World Tourism Organisation has just published a report that shows the ranking of countries in the Arab world and the Mediterranean.

Morocco is ranked first among Arab countries with 10.8 million tourists, followed by Egypt with 9,620,000 and Tunisia with 6.06 million visitors. In this ranking, Algeria and Lebanon occupy the last places respectively with 2.3 million and 1.35 million.

The same report indicates that before the war Syria had registered 8.5 million visitors.

Given the situation in Turkey, Morocco is expected to benefit as tourists avoid Istanbul and Ankara due to the unrest and potential for more turmoil.

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Australian-Moroccan "Angel" Honoured by King Mohammed VI

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Back in 2015, The View From Fez reported on the wonderful work of Melbourne based Moroccan, Fatima Baraka, who has been working to assist four year old Yahya El Jabaly who was born with a severely deformed face. Now Yahya is back home and yesterday, Fatima Baraka was in Tangier to be honoured by King Mohammed VI on the occasion of the 17th anniversary of the sovereign’s accession to the Throne
 (Please note: the video has Arabic audio)

Without the extraordinary commitment of Fatima Baraka and the team of surgeons at the Royal Children's Hospital in Melbourne, little Yahya faced a very uncertain future. Professor Tony Holmes. Holmes explains, "We don't know what causes the condition. It is sporadic, it is not genetic and most children do not survive the pregnancy. But some, like Yahya, arrive here."

Dr. Andrew Rochford and Yahya

For Fatima Baraka, this is just the beginning of a commitment to child victims of certain diseases and who do not have the means to be cared for. "Inspired by the difference we can make, I will continue to work hard and establish a charity that provides medical care to children in countries where adequate health care is not available," she said.


To find out more and to assist with Fatima's work at The Moroccan Children's Appeal, visit the Facebook Page.

More about Yahya's return home from Australia's Channel 7: ( You can skip the commercial!):
 https://au.news.yahoo.com/sunday-night/video/watch/31973991/yahya-returns-home/#page1

THE VIEW FROM FEZ CONGRATULATES FATIMA BARAKA FOR HER WONDERFUL WORK

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Morocco's Heatwave Continues

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According to the American Meteorological Society (AMS) "in 2015, the annual temperature in Morocco was the hottest since 1960." Yet, 2016 could reach new peak temperatures
Marrakech should reach 40 degrees plus for the next couple of weeks

American scientists in collaboration with experts from around the world including those of the Moroccan National Meteorology Directorate under the Ministry of Energy, Mines, Water and the Environment say the maximum temperature was recorded in the northwest of the Kingdom and was about 1° Celsius above previously recorded temperatures.

In 2015, the months of May, July and August were particularly marked by heat waves, leading to high maximum temperatures. "These heat waves were associated with dry continental air intrusions from the intense heat in the Sahara," explain the authors. This is what they believe was the basis of wildfires that devastated hundreds of hectares, especially in northern Morocco last year.

Meanwhile, 2016 is turning out to be possibly even warmer. The last few weeks in Fez and Marrakech have been continually reaching daytime temperatures above 40 Celsius. The temperatures headed up across the country last month and Friday 22 July in Southern Morocco saw temperatures of between 43 degrees and 47 degrees Celsius.

Over the next couple of weeks, conditions are expected to be the same (Marrakech 43 or 44 degrees C). However in Fez temperatures over the next ten days should start to decrease to the middle to high 30s.

Hot food takeaway in Marrakech - a bit too hot

Apart from the normal warnings about drinking plenty of water - there is also an issue with electronic and electrical equipment. A couple of days ago a food vendor's stall in the Jemaa El Fna caught fire due to overheated electrical appliances. Fortunately nobody was injured.

One tourist told The View From Fez that he "cooked my iPhone by leaving it out in the sun for 20 minutes.... ouch!

For most people the answer to cooling down is a visit to one of the local swimming pools...


...or, if you have transport,  to the nearest beach.


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Moroccan Summer - Tourism, Heatwaves and Burkini Bans

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As we reported recently, tourism in Morocco is having a downturn,  (see story here) however the popular Minister for Tourism, Lahcen Haddad, is quick to point out that that overall progress is being made 

 In response to a question from the Socialist Group in the House of Councillors on "accompanying measures for the promotion of the tourism sector", the minister pointed out that the number of tourists who visited Morocco increased by 10% between 2010 and 2015 and that this period was marked by an increase of 31% of the bed capacity (241,000 beds) and the creation of 60,000 additional jobs in the tourism sector.

He also pointed out that the threshold of 10 million tourists per year was exceeded for the first time in 2013 (10.04 million tourists).

The minister noted that a decline in tourist flow and bookings rate was recorded during the period from January to October 2015, including French tourists compared to the same period of the previous year.

Haddad has rightfully attributed the decline to terrorist attacks in France Tunisia and Turkey.

The Russian Invasion!

Although it has not reached the same level as traditional source markets, the Russian tourism is becoming increasingly important in Morocco. Evidenced by the dramatic increase (+ 300%) in the number of overnight stays in Agadir.


Some 40,154 overnight stays were recorded in June against 10,021 overnight stays in the same period last year. In total, 4,792 arrivals have allowed Russia to be the third market in terms of nights after the Germans (42,137) and English (40,639), according to figures from the Regional Tourism Council. Moroccan tourist arrivals fell by 50% to stand at 19,666 in June 2016 due to Ramadan.

Tourist Warning - Heatwave is now official!

For tourists visiting a warning to apply sunscreen and drink plenty of water. The advice follows a press release from National Directorate of Meteorology which says that this week's temperatures will vary between 42 and 46 degrees c, Zagora, Tata, Assa-Zag, Smara, Boujdour, Oued Ed-Dahab, Tan Tan, Guelmim, Sidi Ifni, and Taroudant.

During the same period, temperatures ranging from 38-42 degrees C are expected in provinces Aousserd, Chichaoua, Marrakech, Youssoufia, Rhamna, Kelâa Seraghna, Settat, Ben Fkih Saheh, Beni Mellal, Khouribga Khenifra, Khemissat, Fes, Moulay Yakoub, Sefrou, Taounat, Taza Guercif, Oujda, Figuig, Errachidia, and within provinces of Laayoune, Tarfaya Tiznit, Ait Baha Chtouka, Agadir and Essaouira.

From Saturday to Sunday, temperatures will rise to 42 and 45 degrees C in Zagora, Tata, Assa-Zag, Smara, Taroudant, Marrakech, Fkih Ben Saleh, and within provinces of Tantan and Guelmim.

During these two days, the forecasters expect temperatures of 39-42 degrees C in Sidi Kacem, Sidi Slimane, Taounate, Ouezzane, Moulay Yacoub, Fes, Sefrou, El Hajeb, Khemissat, Khenifra, Khouribga Settat, Ben Slimane, Rhamna, Kelâa Seraghna, Beni Mellal, Azilal, Youssoufia, Chichester, Errachidia, and within provinces of Larache, Kenitra, Safi, Essaouira, Agadir, Chtouka Ait Baha, Sidi Ifni, Boujdour and Oued Ed-Dahab.

Moreover, a strong wind to strong northern sector (50/70 KM / H), blow on the regions of Dakhla, Laayoune and Boujdour, Tuesday from 14h to midnight, the source said.

Burkini Blues ... again

This summer has also seen an increase in the number of hotels banning the wearing of the burkini in their swimming pools.

Almost all of them say the ban is a question of hygiene.

The latest burkini ban is at a swimming pool in a hotel in Marrakech which for "reasons of safety and hygiene" has demanded that women wishing to swim in the pool wear a normal swimsuit. The hotel has installed a sign prohibiting the burkini.

Last year, a pool in Casablanca pool banned the burkini. Other hotels and pools had also prohibited the "Islamic combination."

Hotel Ibis El Jadida and many hotels in Marrakech apply this prohibition. The Tamaris Aqua Park, located a few kilometres from Casablanca had also opposed the burkini officially for reasons related to hygiene.

And yet another controversy that Morocco visits every summer is that of beaches reserved for women.

Again this year a small group has started a Facebook campaign calling for female only beaches where they will not be harassed for wearing a bikini or normal swimsuits.

Beaches reserved for women in particular exist in the UAE, Turkey and the Republic of Dagestan. It is not expected that Morocco will join that small list anytime soon. Rather the general consensus is that it is more important is to educate conservative males that how their sisters dress is none of their business.


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Kloub Nssa (Heart Of Women) - Women Sufis from Essaouira

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Last year,  vocalist/percussionist/composer, Paula Jeanine Bennett, from Brooklyn, New York, was in Morocco working with Jessica Stephens' Culture Vultures and presented Village Dial Waheda / A Village Of One (See story here). Now she is coming back to Morocco with an exciting new project

During the last year, Bennett has been working with the Sufi Haddarattes Souiriyattes ( Hadra group from Essaouira) and between August 19th and 21st will present her new work during the Festival Hadra Feminine et Musique de Transe. This is the fourth edition of the festival.


Bennett's collaboration has result in a project named Kloub Nssa (Heart Of Women). The project features compositions by Bennett as well as several of their traditional Haddaratte songs that she has adapted into English.


In composing for the project, Bennett says she was inspired by the writings of Catholic mystic Thomas Merton. The Sufi Haddarattes of Essaouira also have an ancient and mystical tradition.The name Haddarattes derives from hadra which means “ecstatic dance”.  While not the best known of the many female hadra groups in Morocco, such as those from Chefchaouen or Meknes, the Essaouira women are gaining a strong reputation.

All of the women share a belief in unseen forces (djnun) and states of trance (jidba and hal).  Kloub Nssa will perform at the festival on August 20th.

Thomas Merton was an inspiration for the work
Group leader Latifa (centre) and the Essaouira Hadra group back in 2012

With the sweet and sultry voice of Paula Jeanine Bennett, the raspy and soulful vocals of lead Haddarattes singer Rabia el Hail, the buzzing beat of the Bendir (a frame drum dating back to before the Roman Empire), the deep boom of the Gnawa bass drum, and the unflagging energy of a women’s chorus clacking, clapping and chanting, the performance should be an exciting innovation in musical and spiritual exploration.


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Morocco - a Safer Destination than France

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While Morocco is still suffering a slow down in tourist arrivals with only 3.48 million visitors in the first five months of 2016,spare a thought for France. While often described as "the first tourist destination of the world", tourism in France is slowing. According to Matthias Fekl, French Secretary of State in charge of promoting tourism, international tourist arrivals in France have plummeted 10% since the beginning of the year

Paris is being avoided by many tourists

"The number of international overnight stays fell by an average of 10% in the first six months of the year," said Fekl, adding that Paris and the Ile-de -France were the most more affected areas. Yet, other areas are suffering after the attacks.

An interesting observation is that customers with high purchasing power, such as those from the United States, Asia and the Gulf, were the ones most fearful after recent attacks reacted strongly to the attacks. Chinese interest in France, in particular, has been on the wane. France issued just 320,000 visas in China in the first six months of this year, a drop of 15 per cent from the same time in 2015, according to the French ­embassy in Beijing.

Even more Chinese tourists will be deterred from once must-see destinations by the killings in Nice on July 14, the Munich shooting last week and the knife attack in Normandy this week, ­analysts and travel agents say.

International flight bookings to Nice dropped 57 percent compared with the previous year from the date of the attack to July 23, while planned arrivals this month and in September were down by about a fifth for France as a whole

"Upscale hotels are suffering more. Fortunately, 80% of visitors are Europeans who maintain their holidays," said the secretary of state, noting that despite the Brexit, the British have not canceled their visits.

This year Chirac chose Morocco

It is hoped that many of the 85 million visitors who would normally choose France for a holiday will now select more secure destinations such as Morocco.

The trend has started with an increase in French backpackers and mid-range tourists. There have also been several high profile arrivals from France.

 The terrace of Les Blancs - a Chirac favourite

The former French president, Jacques Chirac normally holidays in Saint-Tropez, but this year he took his private jet and flew into Agadir. This is not his first trip and in previous years he was seen taking coffee at La Madrague or on the terrace of Les Blancs, located in the marina of Agadir.  He and his wife Bernadette, often spend Christmas in Taroudant (700 km south of Rabat) where they have a private residence.

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Dates Announced for 21st Chellah Jazz Festival

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The Chellah Jazz Festival in Rabat is scheduled to run from the 22nd to 25th of September. There had been doubts about the festival taking place due to restoration work begun last year by the Ministry of Culture. Thankfully the 2016 festival will finally take place

Yesterday (Tuesday August 10) a statement from the Delegation of the European Union in Morocco gave the festival the green light. The European Delegation organises the festival, in partnership with the Ministry of Culture and the Wilaya of Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer along with embassies and institutes of other EU member countries.

The 21st edition of the festival will follow the popular format of previous editions, with an early evening performance by a European group, followed by a Moroccan-European fusion. New this year  will be projections "on the walls to allow a wider audience to share the Jazz au Chellah".


The artistic direction this year comes from Sebastian Vidal, the Nice Jazz Festival programmer and Jauk El Maleh, singer, author and composer of specialist percussion, considered the "undisputed father of Dakka jazz".

Organisers say they will announced the festival programme in the next few days.

Please note that the "official festival website" jazzauchellah.com/ has been hacked or colonised and has no festival information.


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Morocco's Increase in ATMs and E-Commerce

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Morocco's ATM network now has 6,732 machines around the country with the installation of 203 new branches during the first half of 2016, an increase of 3.1% compared to the numbers in December 2015

According to the Centre For Interbank Electronic Banking (CMI) the network has seen an increase of 129.1 million dirhams in withdrawals by Moroccan and foreign bank cards for a total of 112.3 billion dirhams a growth of 8.7% in terms of withdrawals and 9.2% in value.

Cards issued by the Moroccan banks numbered 12.3 million, an increase of 3.9% compared to December 2015. The major cards are Visa, MasterCard and the national brand CMI. The growth is due to a significant increase the number of cards, with MasterCard up 10.4% and CMI also up 10.4% and a moderate increase in the number of private cards (+ 0.9%) and Visa (+ 0.7%) compared to the numbers at the end December 2015.

Prepaid (debit) cards, represent 1.6 million cards - 48.4% of CMI cards, 49.5% of Visa and MasterCard cards and 2.1% for store cards.


At the same time e-commerce is booming with 873.4 million dirhams generated in the first half of 2016, an increase of 35.4% compared to the same period last year. The activity totaled 1.7 million Moroccan and foreign transactions via bank cards, an increase of 51.6%. Moroccan bank cards stand out with strong growth in transactions, which reached 1.6 million (+ 52%), while the amount generated was $ 793 million DH (+ 38.1%). For their part, online payments, foreign cards represent 80.4 million dirhams (+ 13%), ie 59,556 transactions (+ 42%).

There has been a welcome change in the number of transactions that can now be done online, including car registration, police checks for resident cards and other government services.


However, the use of cheques has run into a few problems with 598,700 Moroccans having cheque facilities withdrawn because of misuse or bounced cheques which, according to the Bank of Morocco amount to a total of 72 billion 500 million dirhams.

The central services of the bank handled 2701 complaints in the past year, an increase of 11.5%, but they have lifted the ban on 196 cases deemed to be erroneous. Hopefully, with the increase in electronic payments, cheques will be a ting of the past.

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Morocco's New Law to Protect Domestic Workers' Rights

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On July the 26th, 2016, Morocco’s new law regulating conditions for domestic workers was adopted by the House of Representatives and will go into effect one year after publication in the official gazette
Photo Credit : FADEL SENNA / AFP

In 2005 and 2012 Human Rights Watch investigated conditions in Morocco for child domestic workers – those under 18 –  finding that girls as young as eight had endured physical abuse and worked long hours for little pay.

Child domestic workers – known locally as “kheddamat” – told Human Rights Watch that their employers frequently beat and verbally abused them, wouldn’t let them go to school, and sometimes refused them adequate food. Some child domestic workers worked for 12 hours a day, 7 days a week, for as little as US$11 per month. All that is thankfully to change.

Ahmed Benchemsi, Middle East and North Africa communications and advocacy director at Human Rights Watch says, “This new law is groundbreaking for domestic workers in Morocco, so many of whom have been exploited and abused, but wage and working hour provisions still fall short, especially the new minimum wage for domestic workers, which is much lower than the legal minimum wage for other workers.”
The new law requires written contracts and sets 18 as the minimum age for domestic workers, with a phase-in period of five years during which girls between 16 and 18 are allowed to work. It limits working hours for 16 and 17-year-olds to 40 hours a week, and for adults to 48 hours a week, though Morocco’s labor law for other sectors sets the limit at 44 hours. It guarantees 24 continuous hours of weekly rest, and a minimum wage of 1,542 dirhams (US$158) per month, 60 percent of the minimum wage for jobs covered under the country’s labor law. The law also provides for financial penalties for employers who violate the law.
“Domestic workers, who are most often poorly educated women and girls from the countryside, work in urban environments where they are isolated,” said Benchemsi. “By providing domestic workers with legal, enforceable protection, Morocco is delivering the message that even the most vulnerable workers deserve humane conditions.”

Human Rights Watch first investigated the use of child domestic labor in Morocco in 2005. A follow-up investigation in 2012 found that the number of children working in domestic work had dropped, but that many children were still working below the minimum age, then set at 15, under terrible conditions.

In a recent article published in Le Monde  and on the Human Rights Watch site, Ahmed Benchemsi looked at the impact of the new law. It is reprinted with permission.


L’kheddama” (“The maid.”) That is how many Moroccan families refer to the domestic worker in their employ, whom they call by her first name. As for her last name, maybe the housewife remembers it, from the day she hired her and made a photocopy of her ID (you never know, in case she steals something ...) Or maybe she doesn’t. Why would she remember the maid’s surname, after all? Nobody ever uses it.

The abuse against domestic workers in Morocco starts with profound discrimination: almost invisible to society. Until recently, they also didn’t exist in the eyes of the law. Excluded from the Moroccan Labor Code, these women, who are most often from the countryside and have little or no education, had no legal rights in terms of minimum wages, working hours, or even days off. Their employers could overwork or underpay them, and suffer no legal consequences.

But things will change now. On July 26, the Moroccan parliament passed a law that regulates domestic work in Morocco. The new law, which will enter into force one year after its publication, requires proper labor contracts for domestic workers, limits their daily working hours, guarantees days off and paid vacations, and sets a minimum wage. The law also provides financial penalties for employers who violate these provisions, and even prison sentences for repeat offenders.

As part of its research on child domestic workers – under age 18 — in Morocco in 2005 and 2012, Human Rights Watch gathered damning evidence. Some "petites bonnes” (“little maids”), as they are called in Morocco, stated that their employers frequently beat and insulted them, prevented them from going to school, and sometimes refused them adequate food. Some worked for 12 hours a day, 7 days a week, for no more than US$11 per month.

The new law sets 18 as the minimum age for domestic workers, with a phase-in period of five years during which 16 and 17-year old girls will be allowed to work. This last provision was strongly criticised by Insaf, a collective of Moroccan nongovernmental organisations that opposes child labor.

That is not the only debatable provision of the new law. Adult domestic workers must work 48 hours per week, while the Moroccan labor code provides for a maximum of 44 hours for other sectors. Another source of inequality is the minimum wage. The wage guaranteed for domestic workers is only 60 percent of the minimum guaranteed by the labor code. Some say that since many domestic workers live with their employers, the food and shelter they get is for a partial in-kind payment. But that is not enough to justify a 40 percent difference. The International Labour Organisation (ILO) allows for in-kind payments, but specifies that such payments should be limited, to allow for a salary that guarantees a decent standard of living for the workers and their families. It is also worth noting that living at their workplace is rarely a choice for domestic workers, as such an arrangement mainly serves the employers’ interests.

Despite the limitations of the new law, however, it will provide legal protection for the first time to some of the country’s most vulnerable workers. This is a real success, for which we should congratulate the government and also—perhaps especially—Moroccan nongovernmental organisations that campaigned for this ground-breaking reform for many years.

Now that the law exists, the next challenge will be making sure it is carried out. For that purpose, the next government (elections are scheduled this fall) will have to establish enforcement mechanisms, in particular labor inspectors who will visit homes where domestic workers are employed. The government will also have to open a broad public awareness campaign, preferably on national television and in Moroccan Arabic – the language most likely to be understood by everyone concerned–so that employees will know their rights and employers they duties.

Enforcing this law will create a social shock wave in Morocco. After decades of quasi-forced servitude, hundreds of thousands of "kheddamat" will finally raise their heads and be recognised for what they are: citizens with rights.


The ILO Convention

In 2011, the International Labour Organization (ILO) adopted the Convention on Decent Work for Domestic Workers (Convention 189), establishing global standards for domestic workers. The convention specifies that working hours for domestic workers should be equivalent to those for other types of work, and that domestic workers should be covered by minimum wage requirements.

Morocco voted to adopt the Domestic Workers Convention in 2011, but has not yet ratified it. To date, 22 countries have ratified the convention, including countries from every region of the world except for the Middle East and North Africa.

“Now that Morocco has established legal protections for domestic workers, it should ratify the ILO Domestic Workers Convention,” said Benchemsi. “By ratifying the convention, it can be a leader for other countries in the region in protecting domestic workers.”


Ahmed Benchemsi is the Advocacy and Communications Director for Human Rights Watch’s Middle East and North Africa division. Ahmed is also a career journalist. The founder, publisher and editor of Morocco’s best-selling weeklies TelQuel and Nishan, and the webmagazine FreeArabs.com, he was awarded twice Best investigative Journalist in the Arab World by the European Union. Ahmed was published in Time magazine, Newsweek, The new Republic, Foreign Policy, The Guardian, Le Monde, and other publications. 

A co-author of “Taking to the streets: The Transformation of Arab Activism” (2014, Johns Hopkins University press), he also produced articles for academic institutions and think tanks including the national Endowment for Democracy, the Middle East Institute, and the Cato Institute. He is also regularly interviewed or quoted in media outlets such as CNN, PBS, NPR, BBC, Al Jazeera, The New York Times, and more. Ahmed has an MPhil in Political Science from Sciences Po (Paris), an MA in Development Economics from the Sorbonne, and was a fellow at Stanford University’s Program on Arab Reform and Democracy.


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The 9th Women's Voice Festival in Tetouan

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The 9th Women's Voice Festival (Voix de Femmes) in Tetouan, runs from the 18th to 20th of August and celebrates the Moroccan female artistic heritage

This year Women's Voice honours two icons, the great diva Naima Samih for her exceptional career in Morocco and Nadia Ayoub, a star on the national and Arabic music scene.

Naima Samih 

Naima Samih was born in 1953 in Derb Sultan, Casablanca, into a Saharawi family of thirteen children. Naima Samih started singing at the age of nine. She has produced some very popular albums including Jrit ou jarit, Latloumounich and Yaka Jerhi.

The festival will be attended by world famous Moroccan singers Latefa Raefat and Dounia Batma, Daoudia as well as local emerging artists, Zineb Oussama, former candidate of the Arabic Star Academy.


Besides the musical side of this festival, social actions are carried out each year with the help of volunteers who have assisted thousands of people since the first festival in 2008.

This year  the "Operation Health for All" will take place on the 19th and 20th of August. The campaign, led by the Moroccan Association for the Protection of Health of Orphans, in collaboration with the Women's Voice Association and volunteer doctors, will benefit nearly 1,500 women, children and elderly people in a precarious situation Tetouan.

Other actions include a lunch for residents of the Prison for Women in Tetouan and actions to improve the living conditions of the residents of Sidi Frij residence for the elderly of Tetouan.

On the artisan side, a market "Over Time" will be held from the 16th to 20th of August to promote local products and local crafts made by women members of cooperatives from the North of Morocco.

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Morocco's Scorpion Problem

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For over twenty years Morocco has been tackling the problem of scorpions in the south of the country. The recent death of a young boy from the village of Tamri, 30 kilometres from Agadir, highlights the need for ongoing education and a quicker medical response


In the latest incident the boy's father called for an ambulance but was told it did not have enough petrol for the journey. Eventually the father raised the money for fuel but on arrival at the hospital Hassan II in Agadir, some reports claim that admission was delayed because of a lack of the father's ID.

Whatever the truth, the boy died. According to health officials there are around 30,000 scorpion bites reported each year with a third of them in the Marrakech region. Over 80% of the bites occur inside houses at night between May and September.


In nine out of ten cases the bites are only mild as of the 30 species of scorpions found in Morocco, only one can cause fatalities. Statistics suggest that out of some 3,000 bites this year, 500 have required intensive care treatment.

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Major Upgrade for the Moulay Yacoub Spa

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Following agreements signed in Fez, Vichy International will provide outsourced management of the Moulay Yacoub spa from January 2018 for a period of 10 years. The investment of some 261 million dirhams will upgrade the spa to international standards and hopefully boost tourism in the area
It was time for an upgrade

The Moulay Yacoub spa, just 21 km northwest of  Fez, has been known for hundreds of years for the healing properties of its thermal waters. The origin of the spa's name is unclear. One version is that the village was named either after Sultan Moulay Yacoub Ben Mansour who was cured after his first bath.  Another version claims the name to be a corruption of Aquae Juba, the spring of a local Berber king, Juba, who was envious of Roman hot baths. Either way, the hillside village’s fame is founded on its sulphur-rich spa waters, which are pumped from some 1500m below ground and reach temperatures of around 54˚C.

The spa is visited most often by people with rheumatism and respiratory problems, or those simply wanting to indulge in relaxation. However, over the years the spa has been showing its age and it is hoped that the improvements will give it a new lease of life.

A model of the proposed hotel

Amongst the additions and improvements will be the new Vichy Thermalia Spa Hotel, being built with an investment of 169 million dirhams. Works started in March and will hopefully be completed by December 2017. The upgrade of the spa should also be completed at the same time.

With an area of 14,000 m2,  the new four star hotel will have 93 rooms and 7 suites, all supplied with thermal water. The hotel will also include three restaurants, a children's club, a fitness room, an outdoor pool and gift shops for Vichy and L'Oreal products.

One of the new pools

During the construction of the new building for the thermal baths and renovation of the traditional Hammam and thermal pools, parts of the spa will be closed until the end of 2017. Other areas will remain open to allow visitors access to the thermal pools. The new areas will include treatment baths with Jacuzzi, 1 care bath with underwater massage, 2 swimming pools with a diameter of 15 m each, 1 pool for men, 1 pool for women, a premium pool of 75 m2, and 2 steam rooms, one for women and one for men.

A subsidiary of Compagnie de Vichy (founded in 1853) has signed a management contract for the Hotel Vichy Thermalia Spa and resort of Moulay Yacoub, with the leaders of the Cothermy (Thermo-Medical Company of My Yacoub), a subsidiary of CDG Development.

Jerome Phelipeau and Karim Jennane

The agreement was initialed in Fez by Mohammed Karim Jennane, director general manager Cothermy, as hotel owner and modern baths and Jerome Phelipeau, CEO of Vichy Spa International.

With the power of Vichy International behind the venture it is expected that the enterprise will be heavily marketed in Europe as an international spa destination.

What is unclear is how much it will cost locals who have traditionally been the main clients of the spa. At present they pay around 55 dirhams to bathe at the spa.


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Fez to Bordeaux Direct Flights Announced

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The airline company Air Arabia announced on Friday the launch of a new connection, Fès-Bordeaux. This long-awaited route will begin service from December 03, 2016

This is Air Arabia's fourth destination offered from the airport of Fez. The flight will be operated by Airbus A320 aircraft and available twice a week on Monday and Saturday.

Confirming its commitment to provide enhanced connectivity between Morocco and Europe, Air Arabia Morocco this year launched the first direct flights from Toulouse to Fez and pointed out that these new services reflect the continued support that the company provides for the development of tourism in Morocco.

It is hoped the new Bordeaux service will assist in promoting Moroccan tourism which has been quiet since attacks in France, Germany and Turkey.

In other parts of the country the tourist numbers are showing improvement.

Agadir rebounded in July, registering an increase of 26 pc in terms of tourist arrivals, with a total of 104,814 tourists visiting in against 83,308 in July 2015.

Agadir tourism improves

These figures reflect increases in some major source markets. The German market increased by 38 pc, from 4 179 in July 2015 reached 5,800 arrivals in July, 2016.

The big increase is in the Russian market, with a jump of 468 per cent, from 1,105 in July 2015 to 5,180 arrivals in July, 2016.

The Russians continue to be fascinated by Morocco, with Russian visitors to The View From Fez reaching over 11,000 in the last month alone. This figure puts them ahead of the USA (10,000 visits). French visitors continue to drop and are now around 3,000 per month.


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Moroccan Tourism Update

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Morocco is making a slow progress in its recovery from the tourism downturn, with some 4.2 million tourists visiting the Kingdom in the first half of 2016. This is a decrease of 2.6% compared to the same period in 2015

According to figures from  Morocco’s Tourism Office ,the number of foreign tourists was down 5.6% while arrivals of Moroccans living abroad showed an increase of 1.7%.

Tourist arrivals from the United Kingdom, Germany, France and Italy decreased by 8%, 7%, 5% and 5% respectively, while the number of tourists from Holland remained steady.

Overnight stays in tourist accommodation facilities decreased by 4% compared to the same period of 2015.

Agadir is attracting the Russians

Agadir, Morocco’s second tourist city, has shown good progress with visitors from the national market and from Russia and Algeria.

After the relative decrease of tourism in Agadir during the month of Ramadan, the city is expected to regain its usual vitality in the month of August.

In an interview with TelQuel, Fouad Hajoui, the director of the Regional Centre of Tourism (CRT) said, “In August, arrivals will probably record a rise. We hope to finish the year with an increase of 1 or 2 percent.”

Agadir received 473,000 tourists from January to July, which represents a decline of 3 percent. This decline is due to decreases as high as 20% percent of tourists from important markets such as France, England, and Belgium.

Hajaoui assures the tourist industry that the city is striving to regain its appeal to tourists who have been shunning it and turning to other Moroccan cities, such as Marrakech, which remains Morocco’s main tourist destination. “There are other markets to regain, as the French, English, and German, in decline, or the Scandinavian countries, which are moving towards Marrakech,” Hajaoui said.

The Russian market, a rising market for Moroccan tourism, also saw an important increase in July compared to the same month in 2015. 5,200 Russian tourists visited Agadir in July, which constitutes a massive increase of 420%.

Another equally crucial market according to the director of CRT is Algeria. Algeria poured around 3,000 tourists into Agadir in 2016, a rise of 40% compared to last year. This rise has urged the professionals to study the possibility of launching an air route between Algiers and Agadir.

On the other hand, the national market witnessed an upswing of 19,000 visitors in the month of July, which represents an increase of 59.3 percent compared to the same period of last year.

Agadir is not without its problems “The bed capacity is unfortunately not sufficient,” Hajoui said. “Some travellers actually spend the night on the beach or in their cars”. This is a problem also present in most Moroccan tourist destinations, such as Fez, Marrakech, Meknes and Rabat,

To alleviate this problem, the Moroccan Ministry of Tourism Vision 2020, launched in 2010, aims to increase bed capacity to 372,300 beds and attract 20 million international tourists by 2020.

Halfway towards completion of the 2020 strategy, it appears that the Ministry is on track. According to statistics provided by the Ministry, Morocco’s bed capacity increased from 97,000 beds in 2001 to more than 230,000 beds at the end of 2015.

In addition to increasing bed’s capacity, the Ministry of tourism strives to expand the tourism market in China and North America and assist this by Morocco seeking to increase the number of flights between the target countries and the Kingdom’s main tourist destinations, such as Marrakech, Fez, Agadir, Rabat.

At the same time, Morocco’s Ministry of Tourism’s ranking system for tourist accommodations is being revised.


To ensure quality tourist services that meet the expectations of customers and to distinguish between different levels of tourist accommodation, the government implemented a ranking system in 2002.

Participation in the ranking system is mandatory for tourist establishments and although applying nationally, the scheme has been administered regionally since 2002.

The ranking system is divided into three sections: the ranking scope, the ranking device, and the ranking repository.

The Ministry of Tourism distinguishes between 14 types of tourist establishments: hotel, motel, hotel residence, residential real estate tourism for promotion, hotel-club, hostel, guest house, home, centre or convention centre, bivouac, and tourist restaurant. Each type may include one or more categories.

The tourist establishment ranking system assignes a classification according to a star system (1 *, 2 *, 3 *, 4 *, 5 *) and categories (1st class, 2nd class …).

The system allows tourist establishments to comply with the ranking standards and benefit from a range of competitive advantages, allowing them to enhance the quality of their services and their competitiveness at national and international levels.

Tourist establishments benefit from marketing, publicity and public relations activities conducted by the Moroccan National Tourist Office and the Regional and Provincial Centre of Tourism, with the opportunity to participate in a wide range of fairs and exhibitions in Morocco and abroad. They can also become better known by being listed in the official guides.


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Fez - First Impressions

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Visitors arriving for the first time in the Fez Medina have a variety of reactions from bemusement to straight out culture shock. Not only is the labyrinthine nature of the city challenging, but many visitors fine themselves confronted by their own prejudices. For others, the experience is an exhilarating step into the unknown

Recently, The View From Fez met up with Lydia Lakic, a first-time visitor, and asked her to share her experience of discovering Fez.


"The sensations were overwhelming at first," Lydia says, "and it was as if my being was on high alert. I experienced a sense of vulnerability. I suppose that is not uncommon as a woman travelling alone."

On her first day a young guide showed her around and, as she relaxed, Lydia began to appreciate her surroundings. "Not only did the guide talk to me about the way Islam is woven into the tapestry of people's lives but I could sense there was a "sacred geometry" in the tiles and wood carvings. Watching the artisans working i appreciated the patience needed to create something beautiful from a sheet of copper, or beautiful fabric woven from cactus silk. It was life at a different pace."

Later on the first day, a friendly local showed Lydia around the old Jewish area, the Mellah, and then, to her surprise invited her home to eat with his family.

"After we had eaten their daughter took me to a hammam [a public bathhouse]. I ended up spending four hours frolicking naked with three other girls who soaped me at least ten times....never knew I was so dirty.' Lydia say it is a memory she will cherish. "I slept in the family house for the night and in the morning returned to my accommodation. It was an amazing introduction to Fez."

Lydia Lakic is an Australian who worked for seven years as a dentist. Since then she has been a traveller rather than a tourist. Having spent time in Santorini Mykonos, Croatia, Peru, Ecuador, the Galapagos and Ibiza, she arrived in Fez. Along the way Lydia says, she has been switching from "left brain" to "right brain", undertaking things she had never previously contemplated.

"I've taught my self guitar, taken up photography and writing as well as exploring the world of dance." She has booked a bellydance workshop in Rabat and is also keen to explore the music of the hadra, the ecstatic trance dance.

Watching her relaxing with a glass of mint tea in the Henna Souq, one suspects that though this is her first visit to Fez, it will not be her last.



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Backlash Against France's Burkini Ban

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France is experiencing a worldwide backlash against its shameful moves to ban the burkini - the Australian designed bathing costume for Muslim women

Nice, Cannes, and several other French cities have recently enacted bans against the burkini, with supporters arguing that the swimwear is not "respectful of good morals and of secularism," and that it poses risks to hygiene and security. Socialist Prime Minister Manuel Valls has said that the burkini represents the "enslavement of women," while former President Nicolas Sarkozy, who announced his 2017 presidential campaign this week, described it as a "provocation" that supports radical Islam.

The argument for the ban rests, ostensibly, on the French principle of laïcité, which aims to keep religion out of the public sphere, and on the basis of gender equality. But critics say the burkini bans only serve to further stigmatise France's Muslim population — the largest in Europe — at a time when tensions are running high following terror attacks in Nice and the northern city of Rouen this summer. The French feminist group Osez le Féminisme! excoriated the bans in a statement released this week, saying they serve only to humiliate Muslim women "on the grounds of sexism and racism".

On Thursday, the council of state, France’s highest administrative court, will examine a request by the French Human Rights League to scrap the burkini bans. Lawyers argue that the short-term decrees are illegal.

A French politician has threatened lawsuits for showing these photos

Meanwhile, a French politician has threatened to file a lawsuit against anyone who shares photos or videos of police enforcing a ban on the burkini. The statement comes after the widespread circulation of photos showing the Muslim woman removing her clothes in front of four male police officers on a beach in Nice. The French spin doctors are hard at work trying to lessen the damage and now the Nice mayor’s office has even attempted to deny that the woman had been forced to remove clothing, telling Agence France-Presse that the woman was showing police the swimsuit she was wearing under her tunic over a pair of leggings

Christian Estrosi, president of the Regional Council of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur and deputy mayor of Nice, said in a statement Wednesday that the photos "provoke defamatory remarks and threats" against police agents. He added that legal complaints have already been filed "to prosecute those who spread the photographs of our municipal police officers and those uttering threats against them on social networks."

News media around the world have widely condemned the French ban and even non-Muslim women have been buying burkinis to wear in solidarity with the French women.

Burkini to the rescue - an Australian lifesaver

The British newspaper, The Guardiancomments: The French republic is built on a strict separation of church and state, intended to foster equality for all private beliefs. In theory, the state is neutral in terms of religion and allows everyone the freedom to practise their faith as long as there is no threat to public order.

Benoît Hamon, a former education minister running to be the Socialists’ presidential candidate in the 2017 election, said a woman being stopped by police for wearing a headscarf on a beach made a mockery of French secularism and warned against “an obsessive oneupmanship against Muslims” by politicians.

The Green party senator Esther Benbassa tweeted: “Women in headscarves stopped by police on the beach. Secularism? No. Harassment. Anti-religious persecution.”

The French group Osez le féminisme said: “We condemn these anti-burkini decrees. Where are women’s rights when we hold one category of women responsible for ‘public disorder’, or even for terrorism? What is the link between a woman in a headscarf on a beach and mass murders carried out by jihadis?”

The garment’s Australian creator Aheda Zanetti,  reports that her sales have gone through the roof since Nice joined Cannes and a number of other water-side locations in not allowing women to wear the conservative design.

“Online sales in the last week have probably had a 200 per cent jump, maybe even 300 per cent,” she explains.

Aheda Zanetti - "I created the burqini for freedom, not to take it away"

While Ms Zanetti’s business has been buoyed by the recent controversy, she says that as a woman and a mother, she’s deeply hurt by the ban.

"I don’t understand why people think they have the right to [tell women what they can and can't wear]", Ms Zanetti says. She's also disappointed that her design has been politicised and associated with a certain religion.

“You can’t judge a wearer, she could be anyone and she is anyone," she states, “This has always been a swimsuit for everyone, it was designed to integrate among the West. It does not symbolise a Muslim woman, it should not symbolise a Muslim woman because the veil was taken away."

"The veil is usually a symbol of a typical Muslim woman and we took that away and replaced it with a hood to integrate within our Western friends and neighbours. No one needs to judge us on what faith we are if we choose to be modest while enjoying our leisure time."

At the same time France is being put to further shame by the actions of several other more tolerant societies. In Canada, the Prime Minister, Justin Trudeau, called for  "the respect of individual rights and choices" and ruled out a burkini ban.  Also the Royal Canadian Mounted Police known simply as "the Mounties", have adopted a new uniform policy to allow female Muslim officers to wear the hijab.

Scott Bardsley, spokesman for Public Safety Minister Ralph Goodale, confirmed that RCMP Commissioner Bob Paulson recently approved an addition to the uniform policy to allow women officers to wear the head scarf "if they so choose."

"The Royal Canadian Mounted Police is a progressive and inclusive police service that values and respects persons of all cultural and religious backgrounds," Bardsley said.

Bardsley said the RCMP will be the third Canadian police force to adopt the hijab policy, behind Toronto and Edmonton police services. Police services across the U.K., Sweden and Norway, and some in U.S. states, have also adopted similar policies.

The National Council of Canadian Muslims applauded the policy change, calling it a "welcome one and a natural evolution for Canadian policing." The advocacy group said three types of headscarves were tested to select one that would not encumber officers and could be easily removed when required.

"While in 1990 there was initial reluctance to allow Sikh RCMP officers to wear the turban as part of their uniforms, Canadians have since embraced the change and we expect that this will be the same with the decision to allow the hijab, said the council's communications director Amira Elghawaby in a release.

"The Canadian Muslim population is growing and this decision will help reflect the richness and diversity of our country as well as open up career options for minorities."

The military has longstanding policies "to protect and promote the religious or spiritual rights and freedoms of [Canadian Armed Forces] members," including accommodating religious and spiritual requirements "if militarily practicable."

 Lt.-Cmdr. Wafa Dabbagh became the first CAF member to wear the hijab in 1996

Lt. Commander Wafa Dabbagh became the first female member of the Canadian Armed Forces to wear the hijab in 1996.

According to the military's dress instructions manual dated 2001, members can wear the hijab with certain conditions.

"For spiritual and religious reasons, members are authorised to wear the hijab, provided that any danger should be avoided when they carry some types of operational gear parts such as gas mask, oxygen mask, combat/vehicle/flying/ construction helmets, diver's mask, etc.," the policy reads.

"In case of real danger, these members shall modify their hairstyling or hijab, or both, in a way that will allow them to wear the requested gear."

British police have allowed hijab for the last ten years

And on the other side of the Atlantic, Police Scotland have approved the hijab as official uniform to boost number of Muslim women joining force.

In a statement, chief constable Phil Gormley said: “I am delighted to make this announcement and welcome the support from both the Muslim community, and the wider community, as well as police officers and staff.

“Like many other employers, especially in the public sector, we are working towards ensuring our service is representative of the communities we serve. I hope that this addition to our uniform options will contribute to making our staff mix more diverse and adds to the life skills, experiences and personal qualities that our officers and staff bring to policing the communities of Scotland.”

The announcement was welcomed by the Scottish Police Muslim Association (SPMA), a group that aims to build links between Muslim communities in Scotland and the police.

Fahad Bashir, chair of the SPMA said: “This is a positive step in the right direction, and I am delighted that Police Scotland is taking productive steps in order to ensure that our organisation is seen to be inclusive and represents the diverse communities that we serve across Scotland.

“No doubt this will encourage more women from Muslim and minority ethnic backgrounds to join Police Scotland.”


Back in France Interior Minister Bernard Cazeneuve has warned against stigmatising Muslims. Speaking after a meeting with the head of the French Council of the Muslim Faith (CFCM), Cazeneuve said: "The implementation of secularism, and the option of adopting such decrees must not lead to stigmatisation or the creation of hostility between French people."

In the end, France’s burkini ban exposes the hypocrisy of its secularist state and the ban on the burkini will do nothing but further increase tensions and fuel extremism. It brings nothing but shame to the country of France.



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